Fabiano Santos * – Winner of the first edition of the contest “Conquering the Azores”
Considering the Regional Department for the Communities’ request on the elaboration of an analysis about the trip to the Azores, my first concern was on how I could describe the fulfilment of a dream. Yes, it was thanks to the contest “Conquering the Azores”, organized by the Regional Department for the Communities”, that I was able to accomplish an old dream: contemplate the landscape with my own eyes, unique in beauty and charm, set foot on those rocks coming out from the deepness of the ocean, sight the mystic Pico Mountain, walk along the historical streets of Horta, Angra and Ponta Delgada. Well, live in the Azores for eight wonderful days!
Two hundred years ago my forefathers left this small paradise surrounded by the Atlantic towards the fields of Rio Grande do Sul, transforming themselves into guards, first of the Portuguese frontiers and after of Brazilian’s.
Thus, two and a half centuries later, be able to come to a distant place and know that part of me has its own roots buried there was an extraordinary feeling. However, it all started in Florianopolis, when I was told I was one of the three winners of the contest. It was even greater because living in the capital of Santa Catarina is also to live the “Azorean way of life”, left everywhere by the colonizers, who, by the ends of destiny, left their islands in direction to another one of great beauty and charm, the island of Santa Catarina, considered by those who defend the presence of Azorean culture in Florianopolis as the “tenth island”.
Finally, as a researcher of the Azorean contribution to the architecture of the old cities responsible for the development of the South of Brazil during the 18th and 19th centuries, I was able to acknowledge the reality of the archipelago, mainly the traditional Holy Spirit Chapels, the topic developed on the work which allowed my trip to the Azores.
A little bit fumbling at the beginning, after all, it was my first plane trip, soon I felt comfortable with the friendship of one of the other two winners Franco Silva, who I met at Florianopolis airport, and after with Ana Martins, who joined us in Rio de Janeiro.
Some hours later, at dawn, we landed in Lisbon and there I was in Europe for the first time. The excitement was even bigger when we left to Faial. Two hours later, we could see the white houses surrounded by the green of the hillsides leaned over the sea. Finally, we arrived to the Azores, that wonderful and impressive small paradise in the middle of the Atlantic. Paulo and Rosa were at the airport when we arrived and took us to the old “German Colony”, where the Regional Department for the Communities is located. There we met Rita Dias and the other employees, who welcomed and treated us as if we were at home.
The three days spent on Faial were outstanding: the maritime landscape of Horta city, the tasteful food, specially the fish, bread and butter, the attention of the local TV channel, RTP, which interviewed us at Horta’s Botanical Garden, the hospitality of everyone we met, such as the employees of the Regional Legislative Assembly, seated in Horta.
I also would like to refer the warming reception of the Director of the Regional Department for the Communities, Dra. Alzira Serpa, who works everyday to strengthen the bonds that gather Azoreans and Brazilians, bonds which are no longer only ethnic and cultural, but of friendship.
The visit to Pico Island, with the outstanding Pico Mountain seen from everywhere, began with a boat trip from Horta’s dock to Madalena’s, an interesting adventure considering the rough sea. On Pico, we appreciated the vineyards, World Patrimony, the kindness of Mrs. Conceição from the Handicraft School of Santo Amaro, the history of men and whales preserved in Lajes and S. Roque’s Museums. We visited all these thanks to the work and dedication of our driver, Mr. João from “Piedade” parish, as he says in his own accent.
On Terceira we went on a tour around the island and Mr. Manuel, our driver, advised us to taste the excellent cheese and wine at the Bettencourt’s Museum in Biscoitos village. In the afternoon, we went to the monumental Angra do Heroísmo, also World Patrimony, with its steep streets, palaces, the Holy Spirit Chapels, the churches, “Memória” monument and “Monte Brasil”; the rope bullfights where we had a great time running from the bull and taking close pictures of the furious animal, always trying to attack the most courageous “foliões”.
Miguel Noronha, João, Cristina and the talented poet Álamo de Oliveira, all from the Regional Department for the Communities, welcomed us at the workshop attended by young Canadians and North Americans of Portuguese descent. At night, we went to the lively Praia da Vitória, which is becoming one of the most important touristic places in the Azores.
Next day, after the lectures by Carlos Corvelo and Maduro Dias at the beautiful Capitães Generais Palace, we left to São Miguel, the last island to be visited. Homeland of our guide and friend Paulo Teves, São Miguel is the largest and most populated island of the archipelago, with its amazing landscape, Fogo and Sete Cidades lagoons, born from the craters of extinct volcanoes. The modernity of Ponta Delgada city, the capital of the island and seat of the Regional Government of the Azores, with its high buildings, shopping centres, highways and a busy international airport. Also, the audacious project of the Regional Department for Science and Technology, which consists in the implementation of a computerized system, the most advanced one in Europe, on all islands, and the University of the Azores with its huge library, inaugurated recently, and its seismology laboratory, which controls all the archipelago, a region of great seismic activity.
On August 4, Mr. José Manuel, our dedicated driver on São Miguel, took us to the airport where we said good-bye to Paulo, our companion during these eight days, always willing to show the beauties of his island. Missing my parents, brother and girlfriend left in Brazil, and at the same time remembering my new friends, I was certain I would keep forever in my heart this wonderful and unforgettable archipelago. Now, as I look at the pictures, postcards, as I remember the faces, moments and landscapes, I wish some day I cross the ocean again to “Conquer the Azores”.
*Born in Porto Alegre, Rio Grande do Sul, 24, resides in Florianopolis, Santa Catarina since 1999, where he attends the Department of Architecture and Town-Planning at the University of the South of Santa Catarina – UNISUL. He is also a probationer at “Diretoria de Patrimônio Cultural da Fundação Catarinense de Cultura.